Series № 3 of 4 Patio & Pour
One End Sears, the Other Barely Warms
Steaks at one end are charred before those at the other have coloured. Part of that is built into the grill, part is how it was heated, and the rest is a burner or a supply falling short.
Written by
Hollis Yamada
- Role
- Service technician — refrigeration and cooking
- In the trade
- 21 years in the trade
How much unevenness is built into a Viking grill?
Some. On a 5 Series the main burners are heavy brass tubes under the briquette trays, and some models add a ProSear burner, which Viking describes as high-intensity infrared heat for searing. That zone is meant to run fiercer than the rest. The infrared rotisserie burner spanning the back cooks the spit, not the grates.
Setting burners differently on purpose also makes zones: Viking’s guide describes direct and indirect cooking, where food sits over a lit burner or beside one. So the real question is narrower. Does a brass burner on HIGH give what its brass neighbour gives on HIGH?
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Was the grill properly preheated?
Viking’s 5 Series guide asks for the main burners to run at least ten to fifteen minutes with the hood closed before cooking, and the ProSear burner about three. Older T-Series grills ask for five to seven minutes on HIGH. Judge the heat sooner than that, or with the lid standing open, and patchiness is what you should expect rather than a fault.
On a cool, damp Woodinville evening, give the grill the full time before deciding anything, and keep the hood down while it heats. A grill that is still patchy after that has earned a closer look.
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Could foil, wind or a tilt be the cause?
All three are on Viking’s own list. The 5 Series guide says no part of the grill should ever be lined with foil, because it interferes with airflow and can leave the grill short of heat; foil over one tray makes one cold patch.
The same guide warns that a grill standing out of level burns erratically and heats unevenly. Its checklist before lighting also asks for little wind, and none blowing toward the back of the grill.
A cart on a sloping patio, an island that has settled, or a breeze funnelling between house and fence can each push the heat one way. Levelling the grill, sheltering it and lifting out the foil on a cold grill are owner fixes.
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What does each burner’s flame tell you?
Viking’s own troubleshooting has owners lift the grates and briquette trays off a cold grill before lighting burners to check them. Light them one at a time by your manual’s method, and look from the side: Viking says never to lean over an open grill.
- Blue and even, like its neighbours: that burner is fine; look elsewhere.
- Soft, tall and yellow: short of air. Viking reads a yellow main-burner flame as a lack of air, and after idle months the usual reason is something lodged in the venturi.
- Blue but small, or gappy along the ports: short of gas. Viking’s older troubleshooting sends a single low burner to its orifice and ports for cleaning.
Viking’s S Series service notes list uneven heating among the signs that spiders or insects have moved into a burner.
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What if every burner runs short?
Then the fault lies upstream of all of them. Viking’s older troubleshooting asks whether the fuel hose is bent or kinked, whether the gas supply is adequate, and whether other gas appliances at the house are also running below their normal rate, which would point at the supply itself.
The 5 Series guide adds the pipe: the line must be sized for the combined demand of everything connected to it, and checked for damage or kinks. On propane, a cylinder near empty or not fully opened gives the same picture.
Viking sets a floor with every burner lit: 4 inches of water column on natural gas, 11 on propane. Whether the grill gets it is a gauge reading, not a guess.
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Could a burner be sitting wrong?
Yes, and it often happens after a clean-out. Viking’s 5 Series guide calls burner placement critical: once cleaned, each burner must be centred on its brass orifice and rest level, without rocking. Its checklist before lighting also asks that every burner be properly seated, mounting legs in their slots.
A burner set down slightly off its orifice catches only part of the gas stream, so it lights poorly and runs weak beside neighbours that are seated correctly. If a grill turned uneven soon after someone had the burners out, this is the first thing to check, and reseating burners is part of the visit, not a patio job.
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What happens on the visit?
We watch every burner on HIGH and on low with the trays out, then read the pressure at the grill with all of them lit, because a supply that copes with one burner can sag with the whole row going.
From there the fix follows the finding: tubes cleared, burners reseated on their orifices, air shutters set against the flame, and the grill preheated and checked across its width once more before we leave. What the fix involves is quoted once the fault is known; go ahead, and the $89 already paid is set against it.
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Follow-ups
Is the searing burner meant to be much hotter than the others?
Yes, on the grills that have one. Viking describes its ProSear infrared burner as high-intensity heat for searing, so that zone runs fiercer by design and takes its own short preheat. Compare brass burner with brass burner instead. If two of those differ on one setting, Woodinville Viking Repair, (425) 321-3414, can find out why.
Can I turn the air shutter myself to even the heat out?
Better not. The shutter sets the air for the gas your grill burns, and on some Viking models it is locked by a set screw and adjusted with the burner alight, which puts hands beside live flame. Too much air makes a flame noisy and lift; too little turns it yellow. Woodinville Viking Repair, (425) 321-3414, sets it by eye on a lit burner.
Why does the back of the grill run hotter than the front?
Partly because of how the grill breathes. Viking's grills draw air in at the front and vent hot gases out at the rear, so the back of the cooking area can run warmer, and wind blowing into the rear upsets that flow. A difference that follows one burner from front to back is that burner instead. Woodinville Viking Repair, (425) 321-3414.